Sikkim Traveled

We started our journey from New Delhi Railway Station on 10th May, 2013. All bagged and set up to travel Sikkim, a north eastern state of India nestling in the eastern Himalayas. We boarded North East Express (0650 hrs) and headed towards our destination crossing a mosaic of beautiful terrains through Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and reaching finally to New Jalpaiguri (NJP) station located in the north of West Bengal (0835 hrs).

Cabbies rush in to the passengers who just deboarded train, making their way to the station exits. Gangtok, capital of Sikkim is at 122 km in distance from NJP station by road and so we hired a diesel SUV which supposedly takes 3 to 4 hrs to reach Gangtok taxi stand depending on the road condition. Jeeps/Sumos/other SUVs cost 200 Indian Rupee (INR) per seat or else, you can privatize entire SUV by paying around 2400 to 2500 INR. Once you reach Gangtok taxi stand you can get local taxis and tell your cabby to stop at nearby hotel or market area, he will take you to the nearby MG Road which is the Mall Road of Gangtok at 150 INR if you choose to privatize else 10/15 INR in sharing.

Teesta River

You will find hotels in variety, from good to all types of. If you want to stay at good-for-actual-travelers viz an inexpensive lodge please head to Nam Nang road where you will find pretty neat self-catering 3 stars at low price as compared to other standing right in front of MG Road. As a traveler, I always decide to splurge on travelling rather on anything else and that's how I budget my trip. We dropped our luggage, freshened up, lunched well, relaxed and took a power nap before we sniffed the evening mist of Gangtok.

MG Road, Gangtok offers best view in the evening plus a pleasant pedestrianized place to take a stroll. The evenings in the month of May are drizzling with a mist or showery. The stretch is well lit with decorated electric-lamps and plenty of shops, chemists, liquor shops, cafés and pubs serve a place of social and culinary life in Gangtok. If you give a close look on the electric-lamps on MG Road running centrally, are fitted with stereos playing soft classics in the evening bringing you a smile on your cheek whilst walking. MG Road also gives you a second chance to prepare yourself for heading north. You can purchase woolen cloths and enough dry food like cookies, lozenge, juice tetra packs, soap papers, moisturizers, SPFs if need be. Also you can collect enough information from Sikkim Tourist Information Centre which is again on MG Road. Please make sure you carry a photocopy of residential address proof (Voter ID) and photo ID proof (PAN Card) also two passport size photographs as a document giving an official authorization to visit North Sikkim lying at a short-distance from China.

You can contact any tour package center and discuss to visit the place of your interest. We rented a diesel SUV (mostly Jeeps/Travera/Innova) costing 600 INR per person or you can privatize entire SUV by paying around 5000 - 6000 INR. The package included sight-seeing, food and lodging from Gangtok-Lachen-Thangu-Gurudongmar Lake-Lachung-Yumthang Valley-Yumesamdong (Zero Point)-Lachung-Gangtok plus a couple of necessary halts. Please keep in mind the upper hill roads leading North Sikkim are bad if you don't want me to describe it as dangerous or devastating maintained by Border Road Organization (BRO). I will explain my tour in detail now.

Day 1: Drive from Gangtok (departed @1430 hrs) to Lachen (arrived @ 2130 hrs)

The drive took more than six hours covering 129 km from Gangtok to Lachen. We halted at a scenic seven sister’s fall located at 32 km from Gangtok and after a while for Lunch in the midway. As we came 50 km north of Gangtok the climate shifted in a drastic manner, the wind went colder, woods went misty, clouds drifted on the sky and roads ran rocky, narrow in parts with steep cliffs and no guard rails. Thrilling though but as you look out the window you realize what you been missing for so long, this was not any vacation I was on to gather cool air but a place where I could see myself happy, feel myself content than ever. The sun had set and it was getting darker as we were closing Lachen traversing the same bad roads. Soon it started drizzling followed by a heavy rain plus the engine conked out due to, again, bad roads. Finally, we reached Lachen at 2130 hrs we were shown our rooms and was pretty neat and cozy. We were welcomed with tea and served hot home cooked food before we threw ourselves into bed and slept tight.

Way to Thangu

Day 2: Drive from Lachen (departed @ 0430 hrs) to Gurudongmar Lake (arrived @ 1215 hrs)

We encountered an amazing fact that the sun rises early really early in this part of the country which later on gave us a "why-not" feeling as we realized we were in the most eastern part of the country. So we woke up at 0330 hrs as we had to start early with the rest of the group. We locked our unnecessary baggage inside the room and roomed ourselves inside the SUV heading north. Outside, it was still drizzling and beautiful. The sun rays soon fell on the snow-covered mountains reflecting a golden tint casting the illusion of hot weather. The distance between Lachen and Gurudongmar Lake is 60 km and takes around three hours. But due to hostile environment and road conditions it takes little more, may be twice.

Roads

We were learning and eventually attained a whole new level of tolerance as our ride conked out again.

Conk! Conk! Conk!

I observed a very strong bond between all the drivers who rode in an impressive manner cutting across the odds and stood by whenever needed, whenever called for. We reached at a place named Thangu (4000 meters msl), which is 30 km away from Lachen. We stepped out our car to have breakfast and it was snowing, a pleasant surprise! We sheltered ourselves at a nearby maggie point. You can bring your own breakfast if you aren't a very maggie person or you can also find bread and butter served with hot coffee. From here you will get overcoats and jackets on rent, you can purchase woolen socks and gloves, ushanka aka. fur caps as you so need them from this point.

Thangu

We halted at Thangu for almost an hour before we stretch the rest 30 kms. As you pass Thangu, the vegetation soon cuts down to shrubs and very little population. Apart from Indian Army, there is no human habitation here. The road through the valley is covered with gravel which gives you a distinct view of a barren land.

Reaching Gurudongmar Lake

The road takes a right turn and continues uphill before you reach the lake at 5227 meters msl.

Hanging Lungta

Since the Chinese Border lies close at 6 km north of Gurudongmar Lake, you may see landmines embedded along the way. The area is a no-tree line zone along with high altitude, breathing problems are not uncommon. If you feel sick or blackouts, it is highly recommend to exit as soon as possible and come down to Lachen.

Gurudongmar Lake

The visit was surely not easy, but an experience may last a lifetime.

Soon after we descended to Lachen by late afternoon, we had our lunch, picked up our luggage and headed Lachung. It took around 4 hrs to reach Lachung (45 km away from Lachen). The roads were usually bad and this time with heavy rain. As we arrived, we were shown our rooms and served with just cooked food. People in North Sikkim prefer rice as daily meal and no chapattis, soups may be served in the evening snacks. We were again told to get ready early in the morning.

Day 3: Lachen (departed @ 0430 hrs) to Yumesamdong and Zero Point (arrived @ 1230 hrs)

Roads were still bad but, by now it started feeling pleasant and joyful, Sikkim is also known for its magical spells. Yumesamdong is 47 km away from Lachung. In the midway we had to halt at Yumthang Valley (3,564 meters msl). The place is filled with rhododendrons, primulas, poppies, iris and other flora.

Yumthang Valley Road

You will find more than 24 species of rhododendrons at Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary located nearby. We had to rent gumboots due to snow covered and impassable surface. There is a small market standing on the roadside, one can purchase souvenirs and winter wears, eateries are also available for a quick breakfast. We walked downhill close to the tributary of the River Teesta running parallel to the valley.

Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim, India

Yumesamdong is 24 km from here. Though it’s a popular belief that Yumesamdong is also known as Zero Point, is not in fact. Zero Point is a restricted place where one needs to walk a while after reaching Yumesamdong.

Yumesamdong

We enjoyed Yumesamdong (4725 meters msl) and its majestic view of Himalayas at vast. In winters this region is closed due to heavy snowfall.

Yumesamdong Melting

I have traveled Sea, Terrain, Dessert but I see myself as more of a Mountain person. And, Sikkim happened to be the most divine trip of all. Now, if you hold a traveling wishlist, I personally recommend you to add Sikkim amongst the rest of the places you want to travel.

Viewing Himalayas

One more thing and perhaps the most crucial one, I'd like to share out of experience that rules are often taken lightly or ignored and mostly meant to be broken, but when you are breathing in the Himalayas you better want to respect the rules.